Choli

At the dawn of Indian civilization in 2500 B.C.E., women
left their breasts bare. It was under Muslim rule, which lasted from
1500 to 1700 C.E., that women began to dress more modestly. The
choli, a sewn garment that covered women’s breasts, became popu-
lar as the Muslims rose in power. The choli is worn with a skirt or
under a sari, a draped dress.
Although Indian women wore unstitched garments from the
beginning of Indian civilization, from the first invasion of the
Muslims in about the tenth century some Indians began to wear
stitched garments. The choli is such a garment. The first choli only
covered a woman’s breasts, leaving her back bare. The garment
evolved into many different variations, the most common being a
tight-fitting bodice with short or long sleeves that ended just below
the breasts or just above the waist. Many other variations of the choli
are worn throughout India today and include styles fastened with
ties, versions with rounded necklines, and some that shape or flat-
ten the breasts.
Worn mostly in the north and west of India, the choli is dis-
tinguished in different regions by various decorations. The fabric
can be dyed bright colors, embroidered, or appliquéd with mirrors.
Cholis are made of cotton or silk but can also be made of organza
and brocade for special occasions.